Castelmagno DOP: A Cheese Steeped in History and Tradition

Castelmagno DOP, a cheese with roots stretching back to the 12th century, is experiencing a resurgence in popularity. From its humble beginnings as a form of rent payment to its current status as a prized ingredient in international cuisine, Castelmagno boasts a rich history and unique flavor profile tied to the alpine pastures of Val Grana.

A History Rooted in the Alps

The earliest records of Castelmagno production date back to the 12th century. A 1277 ruling stipulated that rent for certain pastures be paid in the form of cheese to the Marquis of Saluzzo. The 19th century marked its golden age, with Castelmagno gaining recognition beyond the Alps, gracing the menus of prestigious restaurants in Paris and London.

However, wars and mountain depopulation led to a decline. Castelmagno, a cheese embodying the stories of high-altitude pastures, mountain sunshine, and traditional production methods preserved by Carthusian monks, became a niche product of the silent Val Grana valleys.

Revival and Recognition

Fortunately, the late 1980s witnessed a revival in production. The cheese earned national DOC recognition, followed by the European DOP – Denomination of Protected Origin – designation in 1996.

Today, Castelmagno DOP is considered one of Italy's quintessential cheeses, alongside Gorgonzola DOP. Enjoyed throughout Italy and Europe, it has reclaimed its position as a prized ingredient in top international kitchens, savored both in its pure form and as a culinary component.

The Exclusive Alpeggio Version

The *alpeggio* version, produced in alpine pastures, faced the greatest risk of extinction. Its preservation is thanks to its inclusion in the Slow Food Presidia.

B2Cheese Spotlight

Castelmagno, with its pastoral heritage, Val Grana flavors, and Carthusian monastic traditions, will be a central feature at B2Cheese, a major dairy industry event held in Bergamo. This event attracts specialized operators and buyers from 40 nations across the globe.

Production Details

The *Castelmagno d’alpeggio* is produced only between June and September, using milk from cows grazing freely at altitudes above 1,600 meters, without silage or artificial feed.

Seasonal Production

Here's a breakdown of the *Castelmagno d’alpeggio* production window:

The Val Grana boasts pristine pastures rich in forage essences and endemic varieties of herbs and flowers. The local economy is closely tied to the artisanal production of Castelmagno, known in the Occitan language of these valleys as *castelmanh*. This cow's milk cheese may include small additions of sheep or goat milk, ranging from 5% to 20%.

Production Techniques

While commercially available Castelmagno is often produced in valley dairies, the *alpeggio* version is made by mountain farmers who process the milk from their own cows in alpine pastures using traditional methods. These farms are located strictly above 1600 meters. The diverse and fragrant herbs and flowers, enriched by grasses like poa and festuca, impart exceptional organoleptic qualities to the Castelmagno.

Botanical research by the University of Turin is underway to study pasture characteristics, aiming to identify the best "crus".

The Cheese-Making Process

The cheese-making technique involves breaking the curd into pieces the size of corn kernels or hazelnuts. The resulting mass is drained for 24 hours in a cloth (*la risola*), which is knotted to form a bundle and hung. After about a day, it is broken again into cubes. The mass is collected and left to acidify for three to four days under whey before being crushed and kneaded with salt, then pressed into molds for a day. Castelmagno is then aged in a natural environment for at least 120 days.

Characteristics of Castelmagno

Castelmagno has a cylindrical shape, ranging from 15 to 25 centimeters in diameter, with a height of 12 to 20 centimeters. Each wheel weighs 5 to 7 kilograms. The rind of young cheese is smooth and light, but as it ages, it becomes darker, thicker, and more wrinkled, transitioning from yellowish-red to brown. The flavor, initially milky and delicate, gradually becomes intensely spicy.

Visual and Flavor Evolution

The paste is ivory-colored and soft. As it matures, it becomes more compact and darker, sometimes with bluish-green hues due to the development of *penicillium* molds, responsible for the veining.

Culinary Uses

In the cuisine of these valleys, Castelmagno is used as a condiment for gnocchi, risotti, tortelloni, and savory pies.

Castelmagno DOP is a prized ingredient in the classic cheese fondue recipe. Its strong and spicy aroma enhances the creamy texture, making it a perfect accompaniment to crusty bread on cold mountain days. Castelmagno DOP is also ideal for second course recipes, from cheese soufflés to potato cakes, and dishes featuring sweet and sour vegetables.

Health Benefits

Castelmagno DOP is a highly nutritious cheese. Like other blue cheeses with *Penicillium* molds, it has a positive effect on the intestinal flora and actively contributes to maintaining a balanced human microbiota, which is essential for our immune system.

Flavor Profile Evolution

Here's how Castelmagno's flavor changes with age:

Serving Suggestions

Preservation of Tradition

The dedication of local producers and the Slow Food movement ensures that this unique cheese, with its deep connection to the Val Grana and its alpine heritage, continues to thrive.